Your (future) watch collection starts here

“Le Guide des montres vintage”, by our colleague Judikael Hirel, is a mine of horological information.

As far back as he can remember, Judikael Hirela journalist specializing in watchmaking at Figaro, has always loved watches. It’s a very personal passion since, despite the watchmakers’ claims to have passed on his love of watches, his father didn’t wear one,” he explains in the preamble to his book. Guide to vintage watches (Éditions Le Cherche midi). The strength of this book (which also has the good taste of not being the umpteenth bulky one) is that it is also very personal. He not only shares his well-founded, well-documented knowledge, but also shares his personal passions..

The framework is set right from the title of the introduction: “It’s time to please yourself”. In the first chapter, the author shares his attachment to his own models, acquired over the years since adolescence (a LIP automatic, its first Swatch…), then reviews the sector’s blockbusters, and shares a wealth of details on their iconic models and their history, with the help of a rich and interesting iconography. He doesn’t resist dedicating a chapter to each of his favorite categories: diving watches, military models, French brands, alternative and little-known pieces by the great watchmakers… The book regularly goes off the beaten track, emphasizing the variety of houses and models that have written the history of watchmaking, some of them little-known today, and making it possible to build a very serious, yet very attractive and above all affordable collection.

Gruen, a forgotten Swiss brand of American origin.
Europastar

Among other nuggets, we discover the Gruen brand, with its elegant sixties collections (which start at a few hundred euros), which have completely fallen into oblivion, even though they were James Bond/Sean Connery’s watch in On do vit than two times (1967). Another discovery is the chic charm of the so-called “Californian” dials, the author’s “sin mignon”, with their indexes combining Roman and Arabic numerals.

Panerai 3646 California from 1944.
Cherche-Midi

Pragmatic, the book reminds us of the importance of taking one’s time and doing one’s homework, and warns against scams and counterfeits. Barring rare exceptions, bargains don’t exist because demand is so high. ” La only formula magic which worth like for all passion is from dedicate from time “writes Judikael Hirel. Readers will find everything they ever wanted to know about starting a collection. This comprehensive overview, written by a true enthusiast, may prove risky (financially) for some enthusiasts, but will also entertain the curious who don’t necessarily want to start a collection.

Yves Saint Laurent Reverso watch from the 1970s.
Cherche-Midi
Moeris, Agent 007’s first watch.
Europastar

Vintage Watches Guideby Judikael Hirel. Éditions Le Cherche midi, 208 p., €28.

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